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Honda Mtx 125 Manuals

Complete coverage of your Honda MBX/MTX125 & MTX200 (83 - 93) With a Haynes Manual, you can do it yourself, from simple maintenance to full repairs.

Hi, Anonymous and the typical suspects are: 1. Gas tank clean. The gas tank provides old lifeless gas.

  1. Honda mtx mbx 125 200 1983 1987 Service manual. Honda mtx mbx 125 200 1983 1987 Service manual Downloaded 32948 times: Preview: Download.
  2. Created Date: 6/8/2004 11:39:40 PM.

Gasoline tank underside contaminated with ethanol sludge, dust, water, corrosion, etc. Fuel supply valve/petcock transformed off.

Fouled interest plugs. Engine flooded as a outcome of overuse of the choke.

Vacuum cleaner hose pipe to the fuel supply valve/petcock shut off, broken, cracked, or pinched. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged. Energy line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked. Carburetor drift stuck.

Gasoline injectors clogged. Fuel injectors trapped open.

Quick disconnect check ball stuck. Compression below 75 PSI. A stuck-bent-burnt device. Severely released or a damaged battery should have got 12.5 volts or more and be capable to complete a correct 'Weight' test if required, you may possess a general reading through of 12.5 volts or even more but little ór zero amperage thé electric battery is defective and must be replaced, AGM batteries fall short in this scenario more therefore than lead-acid batteries. Examine electric battery terminals for harm or deterioration, check out the battery cables at 'BOTH' finishes for loosened, corroded, or broken connectors, 'Inside of' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle check and verify cables with an ohmmeter if required.

Loose or corroded wire connection at the coils or plug between ignition sénsor and ECM component. Spark plug cables in poor situation and shorting check out for spark leakage in the dark, cable cable connections are unfastened or linked to the wrong cylinders. Ignition time incorrect due to a faulty ignition coils, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, 02, TPS, ETP, lAC detectors.

Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand security change. Faulty gas pump motor or fuse or relay. Faulty or corroded run/stop change.

Tilt sensor demands a reset to zero. Security program not really disarming alarm desires a reset to zero. Examine for motor trouble codes. For even more info about your problem and precious 'Free of charge' downloads that you will require for looking at or printing please click on the glowing blue links below. Good fortune and have a great time. Btw, I'michael accessible to assist over the mobile phone in case u require.

216 Solutions SOURCE: This will be the closest guide to your bicycle I can discover. As you can observe, it covers from 1979 - 2003 - Honda rarely alter their motor options when they create something that works. This manual was most likely last printed in 2003 - and later year bikes just included updated web pages (Honda does that quite frequently to conserve on re-printing fresh manuals). The XL design is specifically the exact same as thé XR, except thé XL has additional components to create it street lawful - battery pack, head light, tail lighting, turn signals, horn and street lawful tires Posted on Scar 21, 2009. 3567 Solutions Resource: Put the piston at TDC (Top Dead Center) by coating up the time scars on the fIywheel and stator.

Put the canister head back together with the cam installed so the high points of the camera lobes are usually pointing type of downward. Pull the cam chain taught on the front side aspect of the motor. Place the chain on the camera gear like that, when boIted to the camera, the catalog tag or marks are in the appropriate place.

The proper position is dependent on what markings are usually on the camera. Some bicycles have got a single mark; an arrow, a right line or an 'U'. The tag should line up with thé center-line óf the crankshaft. lf the cam provides two marks opposite each other, the ranges should be parallel with the gasket surface area. You will need to turn the unbolted camera still left or best just a bit in purchase to fit up the bolt openings to the gear holes. Can I obtain a “very helpful” rating on this solution?

Published on Aug 20, 2009. Hello epsom.you really should purchase the shop guide so you could find the drawings and the action by stage treatments on how to align timing scars and correctly gap your piston bands. Plus so much more details that you are usually going to require to perform the work right. Plus the guide offers the torque specs. And the sequence-There is not enough room right here to provide you all the details u will require. Here is definitely a hyperlink for the regular online, you might can discover it a bit cheaper on Amazon .

com. I hope this assists. Jul 17, 2011. This will be the closest guide to your bike I can discover. As you can observe, it addresses from 1979 - 2003 - Honda hardly ever alter their engine options when they create something that works. This guide was most likely last imprinted in 2003 - and later year bikes just added updated web pages (Honda will that quite usually to conserve on re-printing brand-new manuals). The XL model is exactly the exact same as thé XR, except thé XL offers additional elements to create it street legal - electric battery, head light, tail lighting, turn indicators, horn and street lawful tires Scar 20, 2009.

Once you enter the website below make use of the research package at the top of the page to find your provider guide to download, here is definitely an example in reddish of what you will style in the lookup container to discover your design service guide: Illustration 1. Honda goldwing assistance manual Illustration 2. Hon de uma cbr1100 provider manual Example 3. Honda xr250r owners manual Be aware: This is a massive site and consists of almost every Honda assistance manual actually created, if you perform not obtain results from the searh box you may have to consider a various combination of phrases.

Occasionally it is certainly best not to get into the season but only the produce and model motorcycle, you should consist of service guide or proprietors manual like the illustrations above. Do-lt-Yourself and fix your issues now, enjoy!

Honda Motorcycle Troubleshooting Queries: Clutch system INFORMAITON The purpose of the clutch i465 black will be to effortlessly disengage and participate the motor from the back wheel for starting, ceasing and shifting gears. The clutch i465 black is certainly a moist, multiple-disc clutch system with metal plate designs and fibers (friction) dishes stacked alternately in the clutch i465 black covering. The package comprises of seven fiber plates, seven metal plates, one thin fiber plate, one damper spring and one damper springtime chair. The dietary fiber plates (clutch traveling plate designs) are keyed to the clutch i465 black covering, which is usually driven by the engine through the principal string.

The metal plates (clutch driven dishes) are keyed to the clutch system hub, which pushes the back steering wheel through the transmission and secondary commute belt. When the clutch system is involved (clutch i465 black lever launched), the diaphragm springtime applies strong power against the stress plate.

The pressure plate after that squeezes the clutch plates collectively leading to the plate designs to switch as a one unit. The result is certainly that the rotational push of the clutch i465 black shell will be sent through the clutch system plates to the clutch hub. Mainly because very long as the transmitting is set in a ahead gear, power from the motor will be sent to the back steering wheel. When the clutch can be disengaged (clutch system lever taken to still left handlebar grip), the stress plate is pulled out (by clutch i465 black cable action) against the diaphragm spring, therefore compressing the diaphragm spring. With the pressure plate rolled away, strong inward force no longer squeezes the clutch system plates together.

The dietary fiber plates are usually now free to turn at a various relative rate than that of the metal plates (i.at the. Slippage between the clutch system plates occurs). The outcome will be that the rotational push of the clutch shell is usually no longer fully sent through the 'unlocked' clutch i465 black discs to the clutch hub.

The engine is free to turn at a various speed than the back wheel. Clutch system TROUBLESHOOTING Clutch i465 black SLIPS.

Incorrect clutch discharge adjustment. Examine and alter clutch launch mechanism.

Worn clutch plates. Check support wear limits. Replace plate designs.

Clutch i465 black DRAGS. Wrong clutch launch adjustment. Verify and change clutch release mechanism. Used clutch release ramps or paintballs. Replace launch ramps and/or tennis balls.

Warped clutch metal plate designs. Replace clutch steel dishes. Cutting tool worn or broken clutch gear splines. Replace clutch system gear or centre as needed. Overfilled principal. Pipe lubricant to correct level. COMPRESSION TEST Satisfactory engine performance is dependent upon a mechanically sound motor.

In many cases, unsatisfactory performance will be caused by combustion holding chamber leakage. A compression test can assist figure out the source of canister loss. A appropriate compression test should be carried out with the engine at regular operating temp when feasible.

Disconnect interest plug wires. Clean around interest plug foundation and get rid of spark plugs. Connect Canister COMPRESSION GAUGE (Component No. HD-33223-1) to top canister per producer's instructions. Make sure transmission is in neutral. With throttle plate in broad open placement, crank motor constantly through 5 to 7 full compression strokes. Note measure readings at the end of the first and last compression shots.

Record test outcomes. Connect CYLINDER COMPRESSION Measure to back canister and repeat Actions 3 and 4.

Data compresion is normal if last readings are within the variety specified in Desk 3-22, and do not show more than a 10 psi (0.689 Pub) difference between cylinders. If compression is definitely below 100 psi (6.89 Pub) for 1100 cc engines or 150 psi (10.3 Pub) for 1200 cc engines. Inject approximately 1/2 oz. (15 ml) SAE 30 motor oil into each cylinder and replicate the compression lab tests on both cylinders. Readings that are usually considerably increased during the second test show put on piston bands. NOTE: After finishing the compression test(beds) and reinstalling the interest plugs, make sure the throttle dish is usually in the shut place before beginning the motor.

COMPRESSION Check RESULTS RING TROUBLE Compression low on very first stroke, seems to develop up on the using shots, but does not reach regular. Improves substantially when essential oil is added to canister.

VALVE Problems Compression reduced on first stroke, will not construct up significantly on using strokes. Will not improve significantly with the add-on of oil. Examine for appropriate pushrod length. HEAD GASKET Drip Same reaction as valve difficulty. CYLINDER LEAKAGE Check The cylinder leakage check pinpoints engine problems including leaking valves, used, damaged or stuck piston rings and blown mind gaskets.The cylinder leakage tester is applicable compressed air to the cylinder at a controlled stress and volume and actions the pct of loss from the canister. Use Canister LEAKDOWN TESTER and stick to the particular instructions supplied with the tester.

The sticking with are usually some common guidelines that apply to Honda motorbike motors: 1. Run engine until it gets to regular operating heat. Clean grime from around interest attaches and eliminate the interest plugs. Remove the air cleaner and fixed the throttle in the broad open placement. The piston in the canister being examined must become at top dead center of data compresion stroke (both valves closed) during the check. To maintain the engine from switching over when atmosphere pressure will be used to the cylinder, engage transmission in fifth equipment and locking mechanism the rear brake. Take note: Before executing the cylinder leakage test, verify that thé tester itself is usually free of charge from loss to acquire the almost all accurate test outcomes.

With a soap solution used around all tester accessories, link the canister leakdown tester to the compacted air supply and look for any bubbles that would suggest leakage from the tester. Using the manufacturer's instructions, perform a canister leakage check on the front cylinder. Create a note of the pct of loss. Leakage better than 12% indicates internal engine troubles. Listen for air flow leakages at induction module intake, exhaust system tube and mind gasket. Air getting away through the induction module signifies a seeping intake valve.

Air avoiding through the wear out pipe indicates a seeping wear out valve. Be aware: If air is escaping through valves, examine push fishing rod length. Repeat procedure on back cylinder.

Be aware: After finishing the canister leakage check(s i9000) and reinstalling the interest plugs, create certain the throttle plate will be in the shut place before beginning the engine. DIAGNOSING SMOKING Motor OR HIGH OIL Usage Check Prior to Canister Head Removal 1. Oil tank overfilled. Essential oil carryover.

Breather hose limited. Restricted essential oil filter.

Check After Cylinder Head Removal 1. Essential oil return paragraphs for clogging. Valve manual closes. Valve guidebook to valve come clearance. Gasket surface area of both head and cylinder. Cylinder mind casting's porosity permitting essential oil to drain into combustion step.

O-ring damaged or missing from oil cylinder/crankcase junction. When an motor needs repair, it is not often probable to determine definitely in advance whether restoration is feasible with only cylinder heads, cylinders, and pistons disassembled, or whether total engine disassembly is definitely needed for crankcase fix. Most frequently, just cylinder head and cylinder repair can be required (valves, bands, piston, etc.), and it will be recommended process to services these systems first, enabling motor crankcase to stay in frame. Follow the procedure defined in Best END Change: DISASSEMBLY, Stripping Motorcycle for Best End Fix, to remove motorcycle for elimination of cylinder heads, cylinders, and pistóns. After disassembling 'top end' only, it may be found that crankcase repair is required; this demands removal of engine crankcase from framework discussed in REMOVING ENGINE FROM CHASSIS. OIL Light - Essential oil LIGHT TROUBLESHOOTING Essential oil PRESSURE Indication LAMP Remains on at rates of speed above idle.

Honda Mtx 125 Engine

Empty essential oil tank. Blocked feed line (ice and sludge, freezing temperatures). Air-bound essential oil line. Grounded essential oil pressure change cable.

Malfunctioning essential oil pressure change. Diluted essential oil. Malfunctioning check out valve. Malfunctioning or incorrectly installed pressure relief valve.

Flickers at idle. Incorrect nonproductive acceleration. Malfunctioning or improperly installed check out valve. Malfunctioning or incorrectly installed pressure relief valve.

Will not shine when ignition is usually transformed on (prior to operating engine). Malfunctioning indication switch. Malfunction in wiring. Burned-out sign bulb. Deceased battery. ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING The Troubleshooting area can be a tutorial to identify problems.

Read through the appropriate sections of your Honda guide before performing any function. Improper maintenance and/or upkeep could result in passing away or significant injuries. The following check list of probable operating problems and their possible causes will be useful in keeping a motorcycle in good operating situation. Even more than one of these situations may be leading to the problems and all should end up being carefully checked. ENGINE Beginner Motor Does Not Work or Does Not Turn Motor Over 1. Engine run change in OFF placement. Ignition switch not really in IGNITION placement.

Discharged battery, unfastened or corroded contacts (solenoid chatters). Starter control circuit, exchange, or solenoid faulty.

Electric starter base pinion equipment not interesting or overrunning clutch slipping. Loan provider Position Sensor tripped and ignition switch not cycled OFF then back to IGNITION place. Security system activated.

Motorcycle in gear and clutch not taken in. Major fuse not in place. Jiffy remain down and transmission in gear. Engine Works Over But Will Not Start 1.

Gasoline tank unfilled. Fuel filtration system clogged. Plugged fuel injectors.

Dismissed battery, shed or damaged battery terminal cable connections. Fouled spark plugs. Spark plug cables in bad situation and shorting, cable connections loose or wires connected to incorrect cylinders. Ignition time incorrect credited to faulty coils, ECM or sensors (TMAP, CKP).

Bank Position Sensor tripped and ignition/lighting key switch not cycled OFF then back to IGNITION. /how-to-unlock-iphone-7-plus-with-itunes.html. Damaged cable or loose wire link at ignition coil, electric battery or ECM connector. Sticking or broken valve(s) or incorrect length force rod(t).

Engine lubricant too weighty (winter season procedure). Notice: For cool weather begins, generally disengage clutch i465 black.

Starts Hard 1. Spark plugs in poor condition, have got improper distance or are partly fouled. Interest plug cables in bad condition. Battery pack nearly dismissed. Damaged wire or unfastened wire connection at battery airport terminal, ignition coil or ECM connector. Ignition not functioning correctly (possible sensor failure).

Faulty ignition coil. Fuel tank filler cap vent plugged or gas line shut off limiting fuel stream. Drinking water or grime in energy system. Consumption air outflow. Partially connected gasoline injectors. Valves sticking.

Air cleaner EVAP flapper (if equipped) trapped close or inoperative. Engine lubricant too large (winter season operation). Take note: For cold weather begins, usually disengage clutch system. Begins But Runs Irregularly or Misses 1.

Interest connects in bad situation or partly fouled. Spark plug cables in poor problem and shorting or leaking. Spark plug distance too close or too wide. Faulty ignition coils, ECM, or sénsor (TMAP, CKP, ET or U2). Battery nearly released.

Damaged wire or shed connection at battery power terminals, ignition coils or ECM connection. Intermittent brief circuit due to damaged cable insulation.

Water or dirt in fuel system. Fuel tank in-take system plugged.

Air leak at intake a lot more or air flow cleaner. Partly plugged gas injectors. Damaged consumption or wear out valve(s). Weak or broken valve springs. Incorrect valve time. Surroundings cleaner EVAP flapper (if outfitted) trapped shut or inoperative.

Spark Plug Fouls Frequently 1. Incorrect spark plug. Piston rings badly used or damaged. Fuel blend too rich. Valve guides or closes badly worn or broken. Pre-Ignition ór Detonation (Knocks ór Pings) 1.

Excessive carbon deposit on piston head or in combustion step. Incorrect high temperature range interest plug.

Faulty interest put(beds). Ignition time advanced. ECM or sensors (CKP, ET ór TMAP) defective.

Gasoline octane ranking too low. Intake manifold vacuum leak. Check Motor Lighting Illuminates During Procedure Overheating 1.

Insufficient essential oil offer or oil not circulating. Insufficient air flow stream over motor. Leaking valve(s i9000).

Large carbon tissue. Ignition time retarded.

ECM ór sénsor (CKP, TMAP) défective. Valve Train Sound 1. Lower oil pressure caused by essential oil feed pump motor not working correctly or essential oil passages blocked. Faulty hydraulic lifter(t).

Leaning push pole(s). Wrong push rod length. Camera(s), cam gear(h), or camera bushing(h) worn. Rocker limb joining on base.

Valve sticking in guideline. Excessive Vibration 1. Stabilizer back links put on or loose, or stabilizer link brackets free or damaged. Isolators worn or isolator bolts shed or damaged. Isolator mounting brackets (still left part of vehicle) free or damaged. Rubber brackets loose or used. Rear hand pivot shaft fasteners loose.

Front motor mounting bolts loose. Exhaust system presenting or striking frame.

Motor/transmission and back wheel not aligned properly. Broken framework. Ignition time advanced credited to faulty sensor inputs (CKP, TMAP)/poorly tuned engine. Primary string badly used or links tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment. Wheels not lined up, rims bent, or auto tires put on or damaged. Internal motor problem.

LUBRICATION SYSTEM Oil Will Not Come back To Oil Container 1. Oil tank empty. Oil water pump gerotors broken; oil cylinder not functioning.

Honda Mtx 125 Service Manual Download

Restricted essential oil tubes or fixtures. Restricted oil filter. Engine Uses Too Much Essential oil Or Smokes Excessively 1. Piston rings badly worn or broken.

Valve tutorial(t) or seal off(t) worn or broken. Restricted oil filter. Oil tank overfilled.

Limited oil return hose pipe to container. Restricted breather operation. Plugged crankcase scavenge interface. Oil diluted with fuel. Engine Leakages Essential oil From Situations, Push Supports, Hoses, Etc.

Imperfect seal off at gaskets, drive rod cover, washers, etc. Limited oil come back hose pipe to container. Restricted rest passage(s i9000) to atmosphere cleaner. Limited oil filtration system. Oil tank overfilled. Low Oil Pressure 1.

Oil container underfilled. Faulty low oil stress change.

Worn oil pump motor gerotor(h). Worn pinion shaft drive equipment. Restricted feed hose from oil tank. Restricted high-pressure give food to hose to essential oil filter housing. Oil diluted with gasoline. Oil get around plunger trapped open.

Great Oil Pressure 1. Essential oil tank overfilled. Limited oil container return hose pipe. Oil sidestep plunger stuck closed.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Alternator Will Not Charge 1. Voltage regulator component not really grounded.

Engine ground cable loose or broken. Faulty voltage regulator module. Loose or damaged cables in charging outlet.

Faulty stator and/or rotor. Alternator Charge Rate Is definitely Below Normal 1. Weak or damaged battery. Free connections.

Honda Mtx 125 Repair Manual

Faulty voltage regulator component. Faulty stator and/or disc. Speedometer Operates Erratically 1. Polluted vehicle quickness sensor (get rid of sensor and clear off steel particles). Unfastened connections.

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Transmitting Adjustments Hard 1. Clutch system dragging somewhat. Transmitting lubricant degree too high. Transmission lube too heavy (winter season procedure). Shifter return springtime (inside major chaincase) curved or broken. Leaning shifter pole. Shifter forks jumped or damaged.

Sides worn off gear dogs and shifter canine rings. Leaps Out Of Equipment 1. Shifter attractive parts (inside transmission) terribly worn and rounded. Shifter forks bent. Shifter drum broken/worn.

Damaged gears. Clutch Moves 1. Clutch i465 black controls incorrectly adjusted. Worn friction china. Insufficient clutch spring stress. Clutch i465 black Drags Or Does Not really Release 1. Lubricant degree too high in major chaincase.

Clutch controls improperly adjusted. Clutch system plates warped. Insufficient clutch i465 black spring pressure. Primary string badly out of allignment or as well tight. Clutch Chatters Rubbing plates or metal plates worn, warped or pulling.

Tires incorrectly inflated. Observe TIRES AND WHEELS. Perform not overinflate. Reduce wheel axle nuts.

Tighten to recommended torque specification. Improper automobile alignment: back steering wheel out of positioning with framework and entrance wheel.

Wheels and tires out-of-true sideways. Rims and tires out-of-round or eccentric with center. Shed spokes (models with laced tires). Abnormal or peaked front side tire tread wear.

Broken auto tires or improper front-rear car tire combination. Tire and steering wheel unbalanced.

Steering mind bearings incorrectly altered or pitted or worn bearings and events. Shock absorbers damaged or used and not functioning normally. Heavy front side end loading.

Non-standard gear on the front side finish (such as weighty radio receivers, extra lighting devices, or suitcases) is inclined to result in unstable dealing with. Engine brackets and/or stabilizer hyperlinks loose, used or damaged. Rear hand pivot assembly: improperly tightened or assembled, or free, rough or damaged pivot bearings. BRAKES Brake Does Not Hold Usually 1.

Get better at cylinder tank low on fluid, system leaking or safeguards worn. Brake pedal system contains air pockets. Master cylinder or caliper piston seals put on or components damaged. Brake pedal pads contaminated with grease or essential oil.

Brake safeguards badly put on. Brake disc badly put on or warped. Brake drags - inadequate brake your pedal or hand lever freeplay, caliper piston worn or damaged, or extreme brake liquid in reservoir. Brake fades owing to heating build up - brake pedal pads hauling or excessive braking. Brake fluid outflow when under stress.

With a Haynes Guide, you can perform it yourself, from simple servicing to complete maintenance. Every Manual is based on a complete stripdown of the bike.

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Easy-to-follow photos. Faultfinding info. How to create special equipment. Colour wires blueprints (where available).